From launching her Tolokazi Craft Beer in 2019 only to be hit by the global pandemic and subsequent alcohol bans, to judging international beer brewing competitions, the tenacity, stealth and business acumen of entrepreneur and brewmaster Apiwe Nxusani-Mawela illustrate how modern women in SA are refashioning the “shebeen queen” stereotype.
Using local ingredients such as sorghum, rooibos and African Queen hop to create unique recipes that are gaining momentum globally, Tolokazi’s award-winning range of premium craft drinks that pay homage to the female brewers of Africa has just bagged a distribution deal with UK online retailer Beer52.
Business Day caught up with Nxusani-Mawela, SA’s first black female brewer, to talk about the deal and trends brewing in the burgeoning world of craft beer.
Tell us about Tolokazi’s deal with Beer52?
The co-founder of Beer52 James Brown reached out in 2020 and introduced us to what they do, which is curating mixed craft beer cases, from different parts of the world, for their subscribers. We struck a deal to brew our sorghum Pilsner in Croatia and around 100,000 of our cans were distributed across the UK in 2022. They were a big success, scoring four out of five with subscribers.
We have just signed a three-year distribution deal which will see the Tolokazi beer range once again distributed internationally. It will be a different beer each time, that I will have to create, and we will also help identify a brewing partner abroad. Each year we will do a unique batch and the volumes will be determined by how the brand is received by the market.
Why is the deal significant?
The distribution deal is a launch into the European market and the nice thing with the Beer52 arrangement is that it is not an exclusive deal, they help brands connect to retailers so it opens up a great opportunity for Tolokazi. We are also working with distribution partners in Zambia and Rwanda.
Are women gaining traction in the male-dominated brewing industry?
Things are slowly changing compared to how it was a few years ago and there are more women entering the beer industry and a few associations that have been formed. For example, in SA we have our Women In Beer group which also has some ladies from Rwanda and Tanzania; at the last count there were more than 40 of us. These are women that are not only brewers but work in sales and distribution, while some are home brewers.
Globally we have the Pink Boots Society while there is also the International Women’s collaboration brew day, which takes place during International Women’s Day on March 8. So, things are really changing even though we are still in the minority. For me what has worked is the fact that I came in with the qualification so I think people respect the experience that I have and also the knowledge I bring. I’ve proven myself over the years as a brewmaster; so I always say to people that I am a brewer first, who just happens to be female and black. But what I want people to remember me for is my beer.
What trends are dominating the craft beer market?
SA tends to follow US trends, so whatever is happening in America we typically pick up on two or three years later. So at the moment, Americans are very much into the hard seltzers which are the carbonated, low-calorie alcoholic drinks. Nonalcoholic drinks, interestingly, are a growing trend, a number of big companies launching in this space. One can see these trickling slowly into SA, and I think it’s a trend that is going to be around for a few years.
In Africa, we are starting to see a lot of people launching their own new brands using local ingredients, which is something that will continue. Brewers are experimenting and creating unique recipes with sorghum, millet and various local fruits such as mango.
What are the biggest challenges the sector is grappling with?
Coming out of Covid-19 we are all still trying to recover but the energy crisis in the country is making things very difficult. Before the pandemic we had more than 200 craft breweries across the country, which has dropped to about 150 as some had to close shop.
From a production perspective, costs are increasing because breweries have to invest in backup power like generators and there is also the cost of diesel that goes with that, something that was not initially brought into costing. Raw material prices are rising, including those of malt, which is influenced by the war in Ukraine.
Additionally, harvests are not what they used to be. Packaging materials including cans and glass prices are also surging while at the same time, consumers don’t have as much disposable income as before, so are buying less.
The policy framework in the country for small businesses is not conducive for new entrants. The Liquor Act talks about transformation and promoting new entrants to the industry but that’s just on paper. Sadly, most of the government funding institutions do not fund us because we are deemed a sin industry making it difficult for new entrants.
When judging international beer brewing competitions, what are you looking for?
The various competitions in different countries have got their own guidelines on how judging takes place, but the principles are the same. You are looking for a clean beer that does not have any off flavours and it must be aligned to a style as per the brewers’ entry. It’s also a good opportunity to network and promote Africa and the manufacturing happening here.
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