Stress and boredom relief manifests differently for everyone. For us (my wife, Annette, and I) it doesn’t get better than heading off on a road trip.
I blame my father, a successful yet frugal accountant (is there another kind?) whose idea of entertaining the family on a 1960s’ weekend was to bundle us into the Valiant and drive us to some or other viewpoint on the Cape Peninsula.
Even though McGregor is only about 140km from Bot River, we’ve packed a picnic brunch and opt for a route that offers the maximum distance on secluded and scenic dirt tracks.
About an hour into the journey on the Scherpenheuwel-Roodekleigat dirt track (off the Villiersdorp-Worcester R43) to Robertson, we come abreast of the Amathunzi Private Game Reserve. I’ve passed it many times over the years and always look out for animals along its fence, but I seldom see any game on the sliver of land you can see of its vast 3,100ha extent.
But today is different. Three giraffes are shambling across the veld near the fence and as we get closer I turn off the car’s engine and coast to a stop abreast of them. They don’t seem alarmed, so we break out the padkos and watch them for about 15 minutes.
It’s the first time we’ve travelled to McGregor by car, having preferred on the other two occasions to ride there on our motorbikes. It’s a fact we’re pleased about as we enjoy a languorous wine-tasting on the immaculately kept lawns of the McGregor Winery and realise we now have the space to take a box of these excellent-value wines home with us.
Searching for accommodation in McGregor will quickly reveal a huge variety, from traditional farm stays to novelty options (there’s a railway carriage on the outskirts of town), as well as houses, chalets and cottages in town, and on wine farms and retreats. We’ve chosen something in-between, a nostalgically themed “Betty Boop” cottage on the northern edge of the village that lives up to its internet pictures and offers good value.
One of the attractions of McGregor is the relative flatness of the town centre, making it an ideal place to walk around or cycle. This comes home to us the next day as we set off on foot to re-explore this well-preserved Victorian-era town, a factor that is influenced in no small way by the McGregor Heritage Society, which ensures the historic streetscapes and buildings adhere to their guidelines.
Our first port of call is La Galleria, Dani Debellis’ chapel-like art studio, in which he exhibits his unique range of “inner-garden” art photos. The blurred images are created, he tells me, by a combination of camera movement and editing, and the result is an abstract portrayal of otherwise normal garden flower scenes that lend myriad colours and softness to interiors.
We’d hoped to check out the produce at the Saturday Morning Market, but a lie-in has made us miss this weekly event (it runs from 9am-11am). Instead, we amble about the town centre, appreciating the old architecture and exploring some interesting clothing and collectables shops. We find that the boutique brewery whose beer I’d wanted to sample has closed down, but make a note of a Whisky Bar we might like to come back to later for a nightcap.
After discovering there’s no live performance at the intimate At the Courtyard bistro and theatre venue tonight, we turn around and head for what is arguably the centre of this alternative lifestyle town’s tourism offering, the Temenos Retreat.
This landmark and world-renowned retreat takes up a whole village block, and used to be a small farm owned by the Bronn family — their original house (1856) now houses Tebaldi’s Restaurant.
The derelict house and sparsely vegetated property was bought in 1996 by Billy Kennedy — a devoted seeker of truth and spirituality — to realise the construction of a peaceful garden space that would allow the divine to manifest for those seeking it. From humble beginnings in 1997, when Temenos (a Greek word meaning “a sacred space”) opened with just two guest cottages and a chapel, this popular retreat now offers guests accommodation in one of 14 self-catering cottages, all grounded in thriving gardens that provide a verdant maze of fecundity, tranquillity and water features to soothe the soul.
What’s special about this retreat is that sanctuaries for most major religions and other New Age disciplines are catered for; and they sit harmoniously side by side, echoing the philosophy that all religions seek the same inner peace and divinity. Even agnostics can enjoy it here, as there’s no pressure to believe in anything, just to find peace in nature.
Annette and I stayed in the characterful Carmel cottage about nine years ago. At the time, we desperately needed an escape from the Christmas crush of kids, entertaining relations and overindulgence. From the homely thatched cottage, set in the dappled light of the green-scented gardens, with its numerous benches planted among birdsong and tinkling fountains, it was just the escape we needed and we vowed we’d be back one day.
In a less stressed frame of mind this time, we inquire at Temenos’ reception if we can take a walk around the gardens. As there are no exclusive group retreats in progress, they agree with alacrity, and we head off into the green-tinged silence once more.
We spend a blissful hour wandering along the meditative gravel paths that weave through the curated wildness, stopping at every sanctuary and spending a few closed-eye-senses-open minutes in each. In one of them, I see tears rolling down Annette’s cheeks. When I ask her what’s wrong, she tells me she’s just so grateful for her life.
In a peaceful stupor, we make our way back to Tebaldi’s secular stoep for a light lunch. In-between delicious mouthfuls, we find ourselves still whispering in deference to our earlier catharsis.
But soon we are making more voluble plans for the next 24 hours: pick up some delectable treats from MnM (an authentic, largely organic home industries shop); an afternoon book read and snooze; sundowners and a braai on “our” delightful veranda; a morning walk along the trails of the adjacent Krans Nature Reserve (the village’s old commonage); and wine-tasting at Lord’s Wines (10km south of town) followed by a gentle back roads drive home to Bot River via Stormsvlei.
Now there’s a plan I could live with every day.
Travel notes
Where it is and routes to get there: McGregor is 175km from Cape Town and 145km from Bot River. To travel the back roads as we did: turn right onto the Doornrivier road 12km north of Villiersdorp; travel to the Scherpenheuwel turn-off (27km — 50-50 tar-dirt); turn right at the Roodekleigat/Amathunzi turn-off (20km — about 8km of it dirt); after 17km of dirt track, turn right and 4km (tar) later, turn left and make for the McGregor Y-junction (19km — tar) just before the Breede River crossing. McGregor is 21km (tar) from here.
To access the N2 outside Stormsvlei for the return trip: head north out of McGregor and take the Stormsvlei dirt track turn-off (1km — tar); follow the road for 23km (dirt) before turning right (after the Boesmans River). At the next T-junction (5km — dirt) turn right and make for the R317 (4km — dirt). From here it’s 8km (tar) to the N2 outside Stormsvlei.
What sort of vehicle will I need: All these dirt roads can be driven in a normal sedan car with reasonable clearance, but not after heavy rains.
What to do in McGregor and surrounds: With its laid-back atmosphere, good restaurants, wineries and pubs, plus nearby walking trails, there’s much to do in the immediate vicinity.
My top list of activities is as follows: Do a there-and-back hike to Oak Falls (12km round-trip) on the Bushman’s Kloof hiking trail (permits from CapeNature’s nearby Vrolijkheid Nature Reserve); take in a live performance “At the Courtyard” (see upcoming events below); go on a cathartic walk around Temenos’ gardens and enjoy a meal afterwards at Tebaldi’s Restaurant, or better still, stay over in one of their self-catering units; stock-up on good value wines at the McGregor Winery (the pinotage and shiraz are particularly good); time your visit to the town according to your event preference (see below); browse at the numerous interesting shops and art studios; enjoy a drink at Jimmy’s Pub or the Whisky Bar in the old Post Office building; ride one of the many mountain biking trails (a map of the seven most popular ones is available from the tourism office) and visit the small museum.
Upcoming festivals, events and live performances in McGregor: Town general — June 14-16: Eseltjiesrus Donkey Sanctuary Book Fair at the McGregor Community Hall; June 22: midwinter food festival at Green Gables Country Inn; September 7-8: McGregor Run & Ride (bicycle race) and the McGregor Poetry Festival at Temenos Retreat; September 14-15: Whisky Weekend; October 5: McGregor Art Walk; and 21 December: Christmas Market.
Upcoming performances At the Courtyard — 22 June: MaxX & Love (tickets from R190); 26 July: James Stewart and John Ellis (tickets from R170) and 20 September: Arno Carstens and Albert Frost (tickets from R390).
Best time of year to go: April to October
Where we stayed: Betty Boop Kothuis — call Lenta on 082 9207961. McGregor Tourism: 023 625 1954 or www.tourismmcgregor.co.za
Would you like to comment on this article?
Sign up (it's quick and free) or sign in now.
Please read our Comment Policy before commenting.