In a brief exchange on X (formerly Twitter), WineMag’s Christian Eedes declared his preference for Boekenhoutskloof’s Stellenbosch cabernet over the same cellar’s Franschhoek cabernet. Since he had given both wines the same score, he was asked to explain himself. His response was that the Stellenbosch cabernet had “more grunt”.
Allowing for the moment that this distinction is real and consistently discernible, we have here an observation that shines a spotlight on the importance of appellation (or place/origin) in the world of agriculture. This is why the Italians seek worldwide protection for Parmesan cheese and San Daniele ham and the French for Champagne and Poulet de Bresse. It’s not (just) about production method: it’s about how the origin imbues the finished product with its unique characteristics.
It has taken many generations for the primacy of these appellations to be recognised. You can’t just say that because potatoes are grown in Bronkhorstspruit they are entitled to special protection. It also requires a degree of precision for the claim to be meaningful. “Western Cape” is indeed a place but it’s so broad that no-one cares. It’s impossible to imagine anyone going to a wine merchant and asking for a bottle of “Wine of Western Cape” — except perhaps in a John Cleese movie.
Even Stellenbosch, a relatively precise geographical indication, is at risk of being too wide an appellation for its own good. There’s a vast difference between the wines produced close to False Bay (so Helderberg and the Polkadraai Hills, for example) and those from the inland wards: Bottelary Hills and the northern slopes of the Simonsberg.
Franschhoek has long enjoyed a reputation as a high-end residential and tourism destination. It has a number of wineries, many of which supplement their own fruit sources by buying in grapes from outside the region. As a result, it’s not been entirely clear what attributes might be ascribed to the region’s wines.
The area is much smaller than many of the better-known Cape appellations. Its vineyards are contained within a valley, with slopes on either side and a generous chunk of flattish land between. Historically — and this is true not only for the Cape — wine was produced on the more easily farmed valley floor. Over time and with an increase in population, this flat land becomes urbanised, driving the vineyards up the slopes, where — in general — better wine can be produced. So in theory the alluvial flood plain should count against Franschhoek’s claims to fine wine. In reality, it is a source of some of its best wines.
This is where GlenWood’s vineyards lie. Over the years, the Grand Duc Chardonnay, made from vineyards planted in 1996, has consistently scored well whenever I taste it blind so I’m not being misled by the brand or by its not inconsiderable deluxe pricing. The latest release — the 2022 — has the weight and intensity I have come to recognise as the intended style.
If, however, you are looking for a more supple feel to chardonnay, you will have to seek out fruit from the slopes. The Chamonix Reserve comes from a vineyard planted at 400m above sea level. It’s much tighter and flintier despite having had oaking comparable to the GlenWood. La Bri offers a compromise in terms of style: fresh fruit, not as “mineral”, the oak evident but not too intrusive. It’s a very pretty wine and likely to evolve well.
Franschhoek also yields some very good sauvignon blanc (I like the wines Adam Mason is making at Terre Paisible, both the riper and more accessible Vigne d’Or and his Old Vine Les Dames de 1987.)
But what Franschhoek does have — and which no other region can match — is heirloom semillon from some of the Cape’s oldest vineyards. It’s worth tracking down the Rickety Bridge The Pilgrimage 2021 made from a block planted in 1905, Alheit’s Monument, The Old Road’s La Colline and the Boekenhoutskloof. They are all exceptional and carry their heritage with aplomb.
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