As millions of upcountry holidaymakers know, the weather on the KwaZulu-Natal coast is from another, much warmer planet. Every year when the mercury dips in Joburg, I get the urge to go and revisit my haunts on the balmy, palm-filled north coast. I can’t always make it, but this year my stars converged auspiciously, so I booked two nights in Durban and two in Umhlanga.
Leaving for the N3 at 6am on a freezing July Sunday dressed in fleeces, boots and beanies, we only experienced a proper unthawing when we reached the rolling hills of KwaZulu-Natal. Winter was behind us.
At City Lodge Durban, relieved of most of our layers, we joined the other guests in the lobby dressed in shorts and slip-slops. In the warm late afternoon we walked the five minutes to North Beach to stroll along the Golden Mile, which stretches all the way from uShaka Marine World to the Suncoast Casino. Slow bicycle riders were enjoying the view, as well as couples with prams and happy, frolicking children. On the beach, people were basking in the last rays, some still swimming in the choppy water.
One should probably check the weather daily when vacationing but perhaps we were feeling too upbeat because we didn’t and awoke to grey clouds. No problem, as we were aiming mainly for indoor destinations — the BAT Centre, a nonprofit community arts and culture hub near the harbour, and the Port Natal Maritime Museum on the Victoria Embankment. We got to the BAT Centre just as the skies opened, so we took refuge with some artists displaying their ceramics. Then we headed for the pub, where we ordered beers and sat at the window, looking out over the harbour. The clouds still hung heavy and grey, but the sun was peeking through.
It’s a short walk past the Point Yacht Club, established 1892, to the museum, which is small but packs in a range of exhibits depicting the city’s maritime history, including weather and navigational equipment, small boats and three large retired ships. The most noteworthy sight is the coal-fired, steam-powered Ulundi, South Africa’s oldest surviving pilot tug. According to the museum, its working life began in 1927 in Algoa Bay and it was also put into service in Durban Harbour.
We had planned to explore the old Point Road, once Durban’s red-light district, because I had a fuzzy memory of being taken as a university first-year to the infamous Smugglers Inn at No 85. The house committee arranged the visit, as well as jaunts to beachfront watering holes such as Father’s Moustache. I marvel now that they considered these important places to introduce to freshers.
There wasn’t much to see; the area has been gentrified beyond recognition and, apart from the impressive gold leonine figure at the 106-year-old Lion Match Company, it was slim pickings. You would need to do a lot of research to know what you were looking at, or go on a guided tour.
Lunch at On Point Waterfront did not disappoint, however. My companion went in to find lunch while I secured a table with a perfect view of the harbour, with ships regularly coming past. He brought two delicious thin-base pizzas and cold beers. Apart from the pizzeria, the restaurant has four food outlets serving shisha nyama, sushi, pastries and pub meals, and there’s a craft brewery and bar.
Next was the nearby uShaka Marine World, where we chose R126 tickets for entrance to the Shipwreck Aquarium, which excluded the water slides and dolphin show. I hadn’t realised it, though the clue is in the name — the aquarium is built in a model of a 1920s cargo ship. For fishy people — I’m not one — and most importantly, bored children on holiday, the tanks hold mysteries and beauties. I especially liked the luminous, wispy jelly fish, the turtles and the huge Moorish idols.
There was moderate traffic considering it was school holidays, and once back at the hotel we ordered predinner drinks at the pool. My companion reported his veggie burger with chips and salad as tasty and my kingklip with a tomato, onion and chilli topping and roast vegetables was very good.
The breakfast buffet was a manageable size complete with eggs to order from the friendly chef, bangers, bacon and chakalaka, as well as cold meats, cheeses, yoghurt, fruit and cereals.
After breakfast I met hotel GM Brenda Botha to hear about the hotel’s collaboration with hospitality association Fedhasa and Tourism Marketing South Africa in creating a safe, secure zone for visitors. It was apparent too from the beachfront promenade that the area was being monitored by police and well maintained.
And on to City Lodge Hotel Umhlanga Ridge, a stone’s throw from Gateway Theatre of Shopping — well named due to its 400-odd stores and about 70 eateries.
This is a vast hotel — 166 rooms, including six suites — located in an ideal spot for the leisure or business guest. It has recently been refurbished, taking it to four stars, with the restaurant, gym, bar, boardrooms and swimming pool area all getting a fresh new look. I liked the soothing tones of the décor, inspired by nature and with a touch of Japanese.
The stylish Umoya Restaurant attracts many nonresidents too and we found a table by the window with a view of the garden and pool. Dinner was a veggie wrap with chips and salad and rump steak with roast vegetables. They came with what turned out to be a regular accompaniment on our coastal trip: saucy, spicy beans. The Spier Signature cabernet sauvignon was excellent with my dish.
It was our plan on Wednesday morning to do the 2km walk from the lighthouse to the uMhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve but as we lingered at the breakfast buffet we realised we were starting out a bit late. Resisting the laid-back coastal pace, we got our daypacks and drove down to the Beverly Hills Hotel, where there’s public parking. The sun was beating down as we began walking, but as one nears the reserve the trees arch over the path, offering precious shade.
Tucked inside the 29ha reserve is the charming Forest Café, complete with barista and panini. We took 10 minutes there and then carried on down the boardwalk, which leads into a magical wetland and coastal and dune forest. The vegetation forms a tunnel and you can walk silently and just absorb the beauty of the birds and plants. My friend wandered off the path a bit and saw a group of mongooses romping by, as well as a duiker. I was a bit envious as all I had been doing was lying on a bench to rest and rehydrate.
We opted for dinner at the family-owned Al Firenze in La Lucia. Strangely, the GPS took us to the mall, but it is in fact a free-standing neighbourhood eatery that has been going for 36 years. I phoned and the friendly manager gave us directions and a booking. It was only 6pm but already dark and after a drive around the suburbs we spotted the restaurant’s welcoming lights. Just as well we had a table reserved because the place filled up quickly with happy, chatty locals. The ambiance, food and service were impeccable.
As good holidays do, it went by too quickly and we were on the road again. Along the N3 it was veld-burning time and the air was thick with smoke. The sun was harsh overhead, with the promise that when it went down at dusk the temperature would instantly plummet.
Rates
The hotels work on the best available rates system. A twin room with breakfast at City Lodge Durban on July 21 2026 cost R1,200 per night and R1,640 for Umhlanga Ridge.
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