In his seminal work, Overberg Outspan, Edmund H Burrows called the verdant 80km valley between Suurbrak and Riversdale “the evergreen gutter of the Langeberge”, an apt title for the water and view-spoilt region on the rainward side of these majestic mountains.
“Lush pasturage, unlimited water and timber were as coveted a combination as a farmer could desire anywhere in the world. The Sweetmilk Valley and Groot Vaders Bosch were the choicest plums of the Overberg,” Burrows writes.
It was a fact not lost on the trekboers of the early 1700s, and those that raced ahead of the pack and received a grant of land in this valley were considered very fortunate indeed. The valley’s unusual verdure has been called un-South African and likened to the Scottish Highlands, and even compared to the miraculous valley of the River Nile in Egypt.
Its allure was also bright enough to attract a Scottish laird to settle here. Having sold his indebted family estate overseas, Capt Benjamin Moodie, the 10th and last laird of Melsetter in the Orkney Islands, bought the farm Melkhoutboom (part of the original Grootvadersbosch) in 1817 from one of the region’s earliest landowners, Jacobus Steyn.
Steyn, a prosperous farmer, alderman and captain in the local militia, was a son of the family’s SA progenitor, also Jacobus Steyn (born 1683) of Welgemeend, Gardens in Cape Town. While numbers of the early Steyns ventured further north in search of fame and fortune — the most famous was the original Jacobus Steyn’s fifth generation descendant, Marthinus Theunis Steyn, last president of the Orange Free State — others remained in the Cape. The lineage of this illustrious family is complicated, but of interest to me as I’ve just met Paul Steyn, the burly and genial farm owner of Doornkraal, a 10th generation descendant of Hermanus (d’Oude) Steyn (brother of Jacobus d’Oude).
Annette and I are holed up in one half of an old farmhouse on his farm, in the commodious yet cosy self-catering accommodation called Doornkraal Heaven; managed by his wife, Anene. When we woke up to the distant chatter of hundreds of loquacious African grey parrots (Anene breeds them) this morning, and our eyes feasted on the view of thriving delicious monster plants wrapped around an enormous old fig tree, we felt we’d been transported to a tropical rainforest.
Confirmation of this exquisite valley’s favourable water supply, fertile soils and unique microclimate is affirmed when Paul tells me of the variety of farming practices he’s able to undertake here: from dairy (he runs Jersey and Guernsey cows and supplies Lancewood with milk for cheese production) to avocado orchards on the hillsides, and also sheep, which thrive in the slightly drier climes beyond the rolling hills (rûens) in the south.
My long-suffering wife is padding about the garden and has left my anorak-self next to the fire in the lounge, allowing me to continue my historic research in peace. I’m glad I’ve brought along a bag of books, among them reports on the early journeys through Southern Africa of Swedish botanist Carl Thunberg and Moravian preacher Rev Christian Latrobe.
When Thunberg first visited “Grootvadersbosch” in 1772, the once heavily wooded, indigenous “state” forest was almost denuded of most of the timber carpenters prized, yet he was still able to acquaint himself with examples of “camassie-hout” (Gonioma kamassi — Apocynaceae), “geel-hout” (yellowwood) and “stink-hout” (stinkwood). But he was disappointed that the examples he found “at this season had neither blossom nor fruit on them” to satisfy his scientific curiosity. Thunberg finally made good on his species and bloom collecting mission when he passed this way again in 1774. It was later in the summer period and he was able to study a broader range of the forest’s fast diminishing timber species, including the red pear tree, the Cape ash, the red alder and black ironwood.
Thankfully, Grootvadersbosch has been a nature reserve since 1986 and was declared a World Heritage site in 2004. Translated into English, the reserve’s name means Grandfather’s Forest, and it refers to the land’s first European inhabitant, Roelof Oelofse, who was granted usufruct of the area (loosely known as “squatting and grazing rights” at the time) from around 1708. Apparently it wasn’t until August 17 1724, that the VOC (Dutch East India Company) formally demarcated the extent of Grootvadersbosch, which set the ball rolling for the formal ownership and subdivisions that occurred soon afterwards.
Hiking the magical trails that run through this 250ha reserve (various types of accommodation are available, too) is highly recommended, and you’re likely to spot some of the almost 200 bird species it contains, as well as roving bushbuck and maybe even the endemic forest emperor butterfly and a subspecies of the rare ghost frog.
Neighbouring farms, like Honeywood, Strawberry Hill and Doornkraal (where we’re staying), offer walking routes and good accommodation, too. When Paul Steyn visited us earlier, he mentioned a trail up a nearby kloof that he had recently constructed, but it’s a dark and blustery winter’s afternoon, so we decide to take an amble along the farm road instead.
We’re rewarded with sightings of nuzzling calves, horses cantering through impossibly green fields, cows grazing in lush pastures and expansive views of towering mountains that make us feel small. Stuffed with ozone, we head back to our farmhouse digs, stopping off at the pigsty in the farmyard (discarded avocado shells tell us they eat well) and later observe a motley parade of windblown hens and roosters who are having a bad hair day.
With heaps of wood to burn on this cold night, we make a large braai fire in the indoor hearth and stare blankly at the flames while enjoying a reasonable bottle of red wine. It’s been a busy old time of late and both of us are pleased to let the fire do the talking.
I’m up at dawn the next day, hoping to capture the nascent sunrise on camera. The energising visuals are accompanied by the wet smells of pastoral fecundity, cocks crowing and the chattering of the recently awakened legions of parrots.
Today we’ll complete the second half of this epic valley drive: up the steep Ertjiesvlei Se Berg Pass, through Zeekoegat drift (hopefully it’s not overly flooded), pass the entrance to rustic and fynbos-rich Gysmanshoek Pass (Kommandant Jan Theron’s commando used it to escape after their daring attack on the British headquarters in Heidelberg on September 14 1901) and observe the tranquil waters of the picturesque Korentepoort Dam (it lies in the shadow of the enigmatic “Sleeping Beauty” peak) before arriving in Riversdale.
In terms of adventure drives through scenic and historic SA valleys, this “evergreen gutter of the Langeberge” is right up there. When the Latrobe passed through it in 1815, he was so enamoured with the romantic views that when a “wild ox” broke from the yoke during a difficult river crossing here, he calmly commented that their “detention was not unpleasant” as “we feasted our eyes on the delightful scenery”.
I know just what he meant.
Travel notes
Where it is and routes to get there: The Suurbrak to Riversdale back road through the “evergreen gutter of the Langeberge” is 80km long (town-to-town) and can be driven from either side. If you start in Suurbrak, take the Suurbrak turn-off from the N2 (10km east of Swellendam) and proceed further eastward once you’ve reached the hamlet (10km). From Riversdale, drive about 4km north out of town (on the R323 towards Ladismith) and take the second gravel road on your left — marked Korentepoort Dam. Doornkraal Farm, where we stayed, is about 30km east of Suurbrak and 50km west of Riversdale.
What sort of vehicle will I need: In the summer months this rustic route can be driven in a normal sedan with reasonable ground clearance (deflate tyres to 1.6 bars all around), but in the wetter winter period it’s advisable to drive it in an AWD SUV or proper 4x4.
What to see and do in this “evergreen” valley: If you want to take only a scenic detour off the N2, the drive from Suurbrak to Riversdale will take about two hours; but allow extra time for view stops. If you have more time, it’s best to stay over for a night or two at one of the many farmstays (for example, Doornkraal Heaven; Honeywood and Strawberry Hill) and other accommodation offerings (for example, Korentepoort Dam) that can be found on the web under “Heidelberg, Western Cape”. Outdoor facilities and activities, such as hiking and mountain bike trails; water sports; flora and fauna spotting; birdwatching and horse riding abound.
What sort of accommodation is on offer: All sorts, from camping to glamping to cosy cottages and luxury chalets. We stayed at one of Doornkraal Heaven’s “half farmhouse” family units, which offered comfortable and good value self-catering accommodation.
What it cost us: R500 per night for two people (midweek). Weekend days are charged at R580 per night for two people.
Best time of year to go: October to April.
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